Sunday, September 20, 2009

We reserved a Mercedes E Class but Hertz thought the Chrysler
Mini-van of love was more our speed!  2 thumbs down for Hertz


Food Pics






BR - Tuscany and Florence

I have some catching up to do with the belly report.  So we left off with the fantastic cooking class, that was our lunch - the risotto and gnocchi.  After that we had some down time, so we took a walk through the vineyards and into the neighboring town.  We sampled a couple sangiovese right off the vine - delish and probably a couple weeks from harvest (these next couple weeks are crucial for this years harvest.  The grapes are basically left to grow for much of the summer with basic care but as September/October come then the harvest is monitored closely and once they sugar and acidity are at the desired or close to desired levels, they will start cutting, much still done by hand).  

We had the wine tasting at Mangiacane that afternoon - we sampled the Villa's own Chianti Classico and the Chianti Riserva.  Both were decent but not great (the '05 Riserva was rated 87 by Wine Spectator and Paolo, the wine director was a bitter about that to say the least!).  We took Paolo's recommendation and headed to Osteria di Passiganao:

http://www.osteriadipassignano.com/index.php?osteria_di_passignano_eng

We started with the Parmigiana & Parmigiana starter - 1) Crunchy Eggplant and Buccia di Rospo foam 2) Zucchini with Squash flower salad.  It was very interesting and super good.  Parmigiana done 2 ways that I have never seen anything close to (I will include pics).  We also ordered the cheese plate, a mix of 3 cow, 3 sheep, and 3 goat.  The plate was arranged from the youngest to the very aged.  There was one the server warned us about that said 'it brought tears to his eyes because it was that good'.  He was right on point, wow it was good, no tears but incredible!  
The First Course was split the 'Green Cannelloni filled with ricotta and aromatic herbs on bread with tomato cream'  - it was phenomenal, really different and innovative.  They basically used the cannelloni as a pasta.  For the main we picked the 'Beef Filet Wrapped in Cheek Bacon and Bay Leaf'.  It was also great, what a meal!  We paired all of this with the 'Badia di Passignano' Chianti Riserva.  After dinner I was like a kid in a candy store at their wine shop (bought a Tignanello, Brunello, another Chianti Riserva, and some olive oil).  Looking back this was the best meal we ate, everything was just great.

We started our last day in Tuscany with the regular hotel breakfast then headed out to San Gimignano and Siena.  The last stop was Badia a Coltibuono, a huge winery in Gaiole Chianti.  We got a great tour of the winery including seeing the family's private collection (bottles from every year since 1939!).  We ended the tour with a tasting of 3 wines, 2 honey, and 3 olive oils.  Our favorite wine was the 'Cultus Boni' Chianti Classico, the oils and honey were very tasty. 
After the tasting we headed over to their restaurant, a short walk from the tasting room.  
We started with the 'Tomato, Mozzarella, and crispy bread with caper sauce' very nice, different, we liked it.  Then we shared the 'Porcini veloute' basically a Porcini mushroom soup and the 'Ricotta cheese dumplings chestnut and chestnut sauce'.  The soup was a good choice because it was rainy and cold that night.  The gnocchi dumplings were so good, amazing.  Ricotta stuffed gnocchi?!?  How the hell did they do that?.  We finished with the 'Beef shank braised in sangiovese grapes with mashed potatoes'  another good choice with the weather.  It was very tender slow cooked meat, very flavorful.  A great dinner for the last dinner in Tuscany, so sad:(

On to Firenze!  Overall the food in Florence was good but not comparable to Tuscany and much more expensive.  Tuscany was very reasonable (keep in mind we are used to NYC prices!).  Dinner the first night was at Aqua al 2, a touristy trattoria but fun.  We got the pasta sampler, cheese plate and then the 'blueberry filet'.  The Blueberry steak was nice, the sauce was sweet from the blueberries but also spicy from the peppercorns.  It was different and we liked it.  The highlight of dinner was the '05 Tignanello - umm umm good!  The night cap was probably one too many Morretti pints at a small bar by the hotel.

On our last day we built up an appetite sight seeing and hit 'Osteria de Benci' for lunch.  We started with the cannellini and garlic bruschetta then ordered 2 pastas (Dina had the signature spaghetti carbonera and I opted for the fusilli pasta with pancetta,  hot red peppers, and lots of garlic!  Both were better than expected.  
For dinner we headed to Borgo San Jacopo, a great hotel restaurant on the edge of the Arno river.  We started with the stuffed Zucchini flowers, excellent just not enough of them!  Then we split the 'Raviolo of fresh pasta filled with smoked scamorza cheese in a tomato, eggplant,  and marjoram sauce'. Molto buono!  (Again not enough of it).  The main was the 'Veal rolls romana style with potato cake, ham and sage sauce'.  Excellent!  The wine choice could have been the nicest of the trip, a 2003 Brunello 'Il Colle' (from a small producer).  The wine was earthy and smooth,  much smoother then the Chianti's we have been drinking.  

That's it!  Now its back to the gym to try and work off all of the carbs.  Pics will be posted shortly.... 
         

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Florence

We arrived in Florence Thursday mid day. We dropped off our rental car and arrived at JK Place (really pretty boutique hotel in Piazza Santa Maria Novella). See link:

http://www.jkplace.com/

We dropped off our luggage and made our way right over to the Cathedral Santa Maria (better known as the Duomo), Battistero and the unbelievable Duomo ceiling. We stared at the Duomo ceiling from the alter of the church......really amazing to look at but could not hold a candle to what it looked like as you are perched right underneath the ceiling. We climbed 463 steps to the very top....along very tiny stairs. The fresco painted ceiling is truly remarkable. When we had climbed a bit higher to an overlook on the outside of the top of the Duomo, it had finally stopped raining. As we overlooked the city of Florence and the hills of Tuscany – there was a beautiful rainbow across the sky line. We were treated to two rainbows in two days!

We went to enjoy a cappuccino and espresso and as we were walking through the square on our way to see the statue of David (Michelangelo) we heard our names being called out through the square. Our friends Vicki & John from the villa were also in Florence! So, we stopped and chatted and then they walked us over to the Accademia (museum). We very much enjoyed the Accademia because we were blown away by the David. Why were we blown away? As you stare up at this massive sculpture that was created from one slab of marble (1501-1504), you actually see muscle definition (throughout entire body), veins, perfect proportions, it looks as though he was in motion....really was a sight to see. We listened to a tour guides information and read about the David. We learned that it had been attacked in 1991 by a hammer wielding disgruntled artist. Luckily only David's feet were scratched up just a bit. In 2001, a group of people from an organization called “Friends of Florence” had an event in which they raised money to restore the David. Oddly enough the owner from our Villa Mangiacane in Tuscany had contributed as did a wealthy family by the name of Sager from Boston. The only $ contributions to this restoration effort came from a South African and an American- no Italians. Many Italian people found this to be odd and troubling, but not bad enough to contribute apparently. We left the Accademia and were off to the hotel to relax and get ready for dinner at a restaurant called Aqua al 2. This restaurant was recommended to us by a couple also on their honeymoon from Chicago that we met in Positano. Dinner was great and we met a nice couple there as well (from Australia) and we tapped into Tiagnello, one of Mike's favorite wines. We walked back through the squares and listened to live music and shared some Moretti (Italian beer) outside. Then we headed home and the next day we were off to explore Florence.

Day two of Florence we headed over to the Uffizi museum, walked all around trying to see of there was any affordable shopping. There was not. Sadly we bought nothing. Well, only olive oil, balsamic vinegar and wine. Mike bought the olive oil and balsamic vinegar at a sweet little husband and wife run shop- they allowed you to taste everything prior to purchase. We walked over Ponte Vecchio (known as the old bridge -landmark- full of jewelry stores, over to Piazza Pitti (enjoyed a gelato) and then headed over to Santa Croce (church built in 1294) and that houses the crypts/ tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Bruni, and Rossini (amongst others). We spent some time reading about each person and looking at the art throughout the church.  Afterwards we grabbed a quick bite and were off for a siesta. The hotel set us up on the roof deck prior to dinner with champagne and treats for a sunset toast, very sweet. We enjoyed our time (we were the only people out there on the roof deck- really pretty) then were off for dinner. Dinner was nice -over looking ponte vecchio and the arno river. Then we walked around a bit and headed back to the hotel. We both are a bit sad b/c we head back to NYC Sat and the honeymoon is officially over.....as this blog will be and the endless gifts of champagne. We'll wrap this blog up tomorrow and add some fun pics. We hope that you have enjoyed reading about our trip and we can't wait to spend time sharing photographs! With love- us.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Recap as we have been a bit mia.....

We arrived in Tuscany at the Villa Mangiacane, a beautiful and art detailed 15th century villa built by the Machiavelli family. There were large gates that opened up as you arrive at the villa. You drive down a very long stone drive way, looking right & left you see the vineyards, the owners helicopter, and villa (which also includes the reception area, spa, two pools, outdoor sitting areas in the garden, restaurant and wine cellar.  This place was such a unique find-take a moment and check out the link to their website- so pretty!
http://www.mangiacane.it/

We met very nice people during our time at the villa.  Salvatore and Michael both worked at the restaurant and treated us wonderfully. We also met Massimo (on site chef from a town called Prato- about 40 minutes north of villa). He was self taught and shared amazing recipes at a cooking class that we had with him (personal, just us!). We cooked together and then we ate together and shared the villa's wine. A three hour informative class. What I thought was really cool was that when we met for our class we not only focused on the meals that we were to cook that day but he also knew exactly what we had ordered the evening prior and shared with us how he prepared each of our meals (three course meals). He was very talented....see included link:
http://www.mangiacanespa.com/cooking-classes.php

We relaxed at the Villa, enjoyed lots of food, met a great couple from Chicago (Vicki and John who were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary!), we walked through the vineyards and into the Chianti region. Such a  pretty and relaxing place! Day one consisted of relaxing and a superb dinner! Day two we enjoyed the cooking class and the wine tasting class with Paulo and then later in the evening we went to dinner at the Antonari estates restaurant, Osteria di Passignano (one of the largest wine maker in Italy). This place was unbelievable. The estate was set so high up (scary tiny roads) in Tuscany and as you arrived all you could see was the castle and clock tower. Such a medieval feel and has been a family business since the 12th century. We enjoyed a great dinner, arguably our best...and met a cool father and son from Montreal. Mike bought some wine from the store- a ridiculous bottle of Tiagnello and we were back to the villa. 

The last full day at the villa we spent driving, driving and more driving. We did two day trips to San Gimignano, full of medieval towers (14 remain and there used to be 70), and is known as medieval Manhattan. I was a bit disturbed as I had read a lot about this town prior and it's torture treatments of the towns people (including children) which we both were highly disturbed by. They even had museums all about torture. It was a bit much. Mike and I enjoyed best the architecture of the town- as it is on a hilltop-amazing views (impressive as you drive up). FYI- George Clooney just bought a house here as well. Very narrow streets and tall walls- very much a maze like feel. The enoteca's, the shop owners, the gelato shops were all very nice- we enjoyed a slice of pizza in the town square and then we were off to Siena

Siena was really nice however exactly the moment that we arrived it was pouring! We walked drenched wet throughout this town that had narrow streets and steep alleys. They had amazing shops and we made our way to the Duomo- beautiful and Piazza del Campo (where they run the Palio-horse race each year). We both enjoyed the feel and energy of this town- it was as though you were in a movie set. 

We departed - still completely drenched from the rain and got back in the car. We were invited by a NYC contact to visit the winery Badia Coltibuono. See link of this estate!
http://www.coltibuono.com/index.asp?lingua=_L2

During the course of the 19th century, the former monastery was transformed into a wine estate and is surrounded by forest. We visited their shop, received an amazing private tour including a wine, olive oil and honey tasting by Silvia from Firenze- so sweet! We also went into their church and there was the very same sculpture of Mary that we have at my parents house in the back yard. The one where Mary is stepping on the serpent. It was really cool there....we loved it. Afterwards we had a wonderful dinner at their Osteria and got back o the road where we remained for over 2 hours of pain. 

When we say two hours of pain....we can't make this stuff up. We were advised to "watch out for wild boar while driving" and "if we are to hit one and their big asses- it's like hitting a brick wall..."- this little bit bothered me and we vowed to no matter what stay in the car. We drove back after it had become dark and alas there are no street lights and never lost had earned it's new name of forever lost. It had asked us to make illegal U turns and to take non existing exits off roundabouts (one roundabout actually had 6 exits). Needless to say this was the most scary and uncomfortable portion of our trip to Italy. We drove and drove and drove....and then almost drove right into (as our high beams put them on center stage) three "working" women-soliciting. I would highly recommend never driving in Tuscany after dark.....that was brutal. On a safer note, once we arrived back at the villa we hung out and got ready for the final day/breakfast at the villa and we were off to Florence/ Firenze

Florence details to follow.....We heart Florence/ Firenze
 

Tuscan Cooking Class

One of the highlights from the Tuscany leg of the trip was our cooking class at Villa Mangiacane.  The Villa's head chef, Massimo Bacus taught us his gnocchi and a risotto.  The class's philosophy is below from their website:

PHILOSOPHY
The objective of our cooking lessons at Mangiacane is to experience the heart and soul of Tuscany through food, history, and culture. Our cooking lessons are about much more than a list of ingredients and how to cook them. Food and wine should be enjoyed with gusto, and that can begin with the preparation of a meal. We wish to introduce this philosophy into the cooking experience at Mangiacane for a memorable and valuable cooking lesson.


The one-on-one lesson was fantastic.  Massimo is super passionate about cooking and cooking traditional Tuscan dishes.  He was actually left law school to to follow his love for cooking.   He started with the gnocchi, explaining about the potatoes and how his gnocchi recipe will change based on the type of potatoes used (young potatoes will have more delicate skin and the heat should be reduced).  Without going into every step by step detail (Massimo explained every step with great detail, I tried to take notes but it was tough to keep up!) here is the short version:  After making the dough, we started the sauce (in order of when added to the pan).   Young red onion (just that a red onion before its a full bulb) 2 types of tomatoes diced up, salt (maldon sea salt from Essex) fennel, olives, capers, dices tuna fillet, garlic, basil.  We cooked the gnocchi and added them to the sauce with some of the water - bam!  An instant classic!  

The risotto lesson was very informative.  It started with with the rice and he explained the different types and showed up the brand he uses (Acqerello, only found in Italy - I am bring back a couple bags).  He made the risotto from start to finish in about 25 minutes - it was perfect, real creamy and tasted like rice and zucchini (the 2 main ingredients).  It also had zucchini flower, pine nuts, spices, and garlic.  Wow it was so good and he made it look so simple.  We'll see if it could be duplicated in the tight kitchen of 161 East 91st street!  

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Tuscan BR Report

Wow the Tuscans are serious about food, very passionate.  We arrived at Villa Mangiacane (the villa/vinery where we are staying) in the Chianti region of Tuscany and were greeted with a glass of their Shamiso, a great Rose that is actually 100% Sangiovese (they use the same grapes in the Rose as the Chianti Riserva).  We got settled in and then had a lite lunch in the restauran, just a greek salad and cheese/meat plate.  Both were great.  The salad (as are most dishes made here) was made with the freshest ingrediants from the huge herb/vegatable garden on site.  

Dinner that night was amazing - (we had a 3 course meal included in our package).  I started with the Burrata cheese app, and Dina had the homemade pasta with seafood, zucchini flowers in lite sauce - both super good.  For the main I opted for the veal cooked in EVOO served with EVOO mashed potatoes.  We got the run down of this dish from the chef during the cooking class.  They pan sear the veal then slow cook it for about 4 hours in EVOO.  For the mashed they simply boil the potatoes with the skin off, mash, then whisk in EVOO, salt/pepper and serve.  A superb dish, the veal was so tender.  Dina got the Blue Fin tuna fillet in fennel crust with chickpeas and eggplant flan - also delicious.  The tuna is pretty simple, just seasoned, brushed with EVOO, coat both sides with fennel seeds, pan sear then finish in the oven for 1-2 minutes just enough to get the center heated, not cooked, just heated.  

Dessert was a reversed tiramisu, with the cake on the inside - very very delicious.  The nightcap was a couple glasses of Prosecco (complements of Villa Mangicane)...

Tuscany





Monday, September 14, 2009

BR - Capri Day 2 and Tuscany Day 1

So we did manage to find room for a lite dinner in a nice restaurant in Capri Town called Da Giorgio (been there since 1948).  We had the 4 cheese pizza, delicious, really good.  I thought I made good pizza but this was something.  We paired the pizza with another Aglianico (red wine native to the Campania region - if you have not tried please do, they are all great and inexpensive).  After dinner we walked around the beautiful streets of Capri and had a nightcap in La Pizzetta, the square that is the heart of Capri Town.  

Yesterday we had the normal complementary breakfast on our balcony as we prepared for the boat tour.  After the boat tour we had the skipper drop us at La Fontinella (a great beach club/restaurant right next to Marina Piccola).  The setting was gorgeous but the food and prices not so much.  We started with a pitcher of sangria and shrimp cocktail.  The shrimp cocktail was basically non-existent, there were 3 tiny tiny shrimp and a whole glob of some bad version of cocktail sauce, all for the low low price of 18Euro ($27), ouch!  Moving on, Dina ordered the linguine with clams and I had the gnocchi.  It was decent but not great.  At La Fontinella you go there for the scene, not the food.  

Dinner that night was magic, just perfect!  We had arranged for dinner back at La Terrazza Di Lucullo (Caesar Augustus)  The restaurant manager took a liking to us on our first day and we were able to reserve coveted table # 5, the only table that was outside.  The view was stunning, many people say the best in Capri and it was hard to imagine a better one.  Dina started with (from the menu description): “I Ravioli alla Caprese” The typical Ravioli of Capri filled with fresh caciotta cheese and marjoram in a cherry tomato sauce with fresh basil.  I opted for the ravioli special (porcini mushroom in a white truffle cream sauce) - they were both fantastic.  For the main Dina had the Pescato del giorno con verdure nature (Sea Bass fish of the day with vegetables) and I had the (menu description) Beef fillet in crust with Taurasi wine sauce, cardoncelli mushrooms and grilled potatoes.  Both were really great, a lot of food but we still had one course left (part of our 'half-board' room package, you get a 3 course lunch or dinner each day).  I got the cheese plate and Dina took the servers suggestion of the Zuccotto di gelato al forno (Baked Alaska). Also super good, what a meal.  Best part was there were constant fireworks shot from the boats below in Marina Grande for the Santa Maria Della Libera festival (from Capri.com: The Festa di Santa Maria della Libera is celebrated on the first Sunday after September 8th.  Devotion to the Madonna della Libera dates back to ancient times and it is thought that she was invoked by the population to save relatives who had been imprisoned, in other words, to liberate them. The statue of the Madonna is conserved in the Church of the same name in Marina Grande and it is in this fishermen’s district that the festivities are held: the streets are adorned with colored lights and in the afternoon a procession takes place. In the evening a concert is organized terminating with a firework display at midnight)


We of course finished a great day with a night cap on the balcony, continuing to admire the fireworks and breathtaking view.  That didn't suck!


That's enough for now, currently in Tuscany and resting the belly for some nice eats sure to come...

Sunday, September 13, 2009




20 Euro's- flat rate.....

20 Europe's -flat rape? Ah...no....no flat rate! Same thing...Where Capri is most beautiful....they get you coming and going. Then again if they are safely transporting us in open aired taxi's....we would both agree that we happily will pay the 20 Euro flat rate. That was our taxi ride back from Capri port today. We arrived yesterday- beautiful day. We saw the port area and then were taken right to Caesar Augustus (hotel) in which we had lunch right away (an amazing three course lunch which we previously wrote about and took pictures of). I have Thanksgiving day recipes in mind! Then we relaxed by the pool....slept, swam, and took in the beautiful sun. The views are amazing....imagine water blending into sky (literally). If one has ever closed their eyes and envisioned heaven, I would wager to say that Capri's views rival the best of imaginations.  We went into town (left Anna Capri) for Capri town and enjoyed a light dinner, the shops, and wine in the piazza (next to the clock tower). 

We awoke early this morning for a boat tour. The boat was a beautiful little sail boat in which there was a bed, a bed with pillows! The boat consisted of our sailer and JUST Mike & I. We sailed and sailed past the grotto azzurra (too crowded and over a 40 minute wait), into the grotto verde,  through Romancing the Stones, all past the edgy cliffs and beautiful scenery that is Capri. We swam in the Cala di Mezzeo....a small inlet in which you could see all the way down into the clear water and we could not get over how warm the water was. Then we were on our way to La Fontina (a seaside restaurant/ beach club). After a delicious lunch (dad, I had spaghetti with clams -blanca sauce!), we took a water taxi that was 20 Euro flat rate to just the Marina Piccola. We then had another 20 Euro flat rate to the hotel. Mamma Mia!  

Back at the hotel we napped and spent the rest of the afternoon, pool side (wait until you see movie footage- unlike any pool you have ever seen!). We anxiously got ready knowing that we had table number 5 (cinque) at La Terrazza di Lucullo was reserved for us! This honeymoon ticket is amazing- the table was the only table located outside overlooking the sea and Marina Grande. Also, we were taken care of very well by Mimmo.... (he was fantastic!) and because Saint Maria's holiday there were fireworks all across the water and into the sky. What a beautiful sight! So far fireworks in Positano and Capri! We loved our dinner and went into our hotel bar afterwards where beautiful piano music played and enjoyed a cocktail. Going to get a good nights sleep as we are off to Tuscany tomorrow. We have decided that 6 months of the year should be spent in Italy..... amazing people,delicious food...beyond perfect honeymoon. We feel so lucky! 

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Capri Day 1 - Belly Report:
BR so far today consisted of the usual complementary hotel breakfast (bread, jam, double espresso, coffee, fruit).  That was the last breakfast at Sirenuse, we loved that place - wow they did a great job.  Upon arrival in Capri and to our hotel (Caesar Augustus) we sat for lunch, and what a lunch it was.  We started with the Garden Plate (below is the menu description) 

 

Little bites of traditional  food, rich of the sun and country feeling 

Pan fried eggplant with cherry tomatoes, garlic and basil leaves 

Fried zucchini slices marinated with garlic, balsamic vinegar and peppermint leaves 

Fried eggplant with mozzarella cheese, parmesan, basil and tomato sauce in a crust 

of home made bread


Next I went on to have Spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chili peppers and Dina opted for the special which was sea bass stuffed triangle ravioli topped with tuna medallions. It was great, and we were not finished!  The main course was a whole sea bass, grilled and finished with a lemon butter sauce and I had the Mixed grill meat (sliced beef, sausage, lamb, chicken) 

with vegetables (from their garden).  


We paired the above with a nice Pinot Grigio.  Fantastic lunch, now we have to find room for dinner!  




Friday, September 11, 2009

Positano Day 3

There are fireworks happening right now...off of our balcony over looking the sea!
We awoke, ate breakfast and then fell back asleep....awoke again and hit the noon ferry to Amalfi/ Ravello. The boat ride was beautiful...you are able to see all the different towns along the way. 
Upon arrival we bought a bus (Sicta) ticket from a grouchy OLD lady (she was even nasty to the cutest little Italian boy!) and we walked around Amalfi. We visited shops and watched people, etc... We then walked over to the city stop (near the boat ports). Many Italian teenagers surrounded us and a wedding party (ps- there are weddings every day here, has nothing to do with the weekends). The bus situation rivaled any lunacy of the NYC public transportation...the teenagers bum rushed the bus and they ended up leaving so that they could all sit together and alas we had our own seats and onto Ravello we went. 
Up, up, up onto Ravello we went.....we finally got there (the vertical village in the sky) and we walked around, took pictures, visited a mid-evil village and gardens, ate a delicious lunch at a hotel that we almost stayed at Hotel Palumbo (italian tile, what tile!)....Mike managed to have the entire balcony overlooking what seemed like the heavens- just for us!  Our waiter showed us around and told us about the art as well as furniture pieces which used elephant tusks (now illegal). Everything so preserved in such great age...amazing....
We then finished walking around and hit the city tour bus which was great -open aired, great italian music (headphones) and topical points about the region....one euro more then the city bus! They played grandpa's songs that he used to sing- beautiful and funny.
We arrived back in Amalfi and took the ferry back to Positano..napped and onto dinner at Max. 
Max was beautiful, service amazing. Afterwards we walked back to our hotel, had champagne and oysters (best ever) on hotel balcony's champagne bar.....met a great girl (our server). Afterwards, we went down those stairs to the beach again- to Chez Black, had wine and listened to live (very odd dramatic music) and hung out....then back home....tomorrow Capri! Positano is really beyond beautiful and we both feel so blessed and lucky to be sharing this experience. More to come!


Positano Day 3

Belly Report Day 3:
B-fast - breads, jam and fruit
Pre - Lunch: gelato!  I had a caffe and Dina had a tiramasu.
Real lunch - wow was this great.  We ate at Hotel Palumbo all by ourselves.  We had a caprese salad (the best olive oil yet), club sandwich (eggplant, cheese, lettuce, tomato).  The white wine was great, a bottle of their own.
The Dinner was at MAX - a very famous restaurant in Positano (he lives in  Newport Beach).  We started with stuffed Zucchini flowers and calamari salad - the best part was the complementary bruschetta and stuffed bruschetta, incredible.  The main was the rigotini with sausage and meatballs  - wow.  All made in house.  We skipped the desert but I did manage to have an espresso CORRECTO (not PERFECTO!!).  Caio for now....

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Positano Day 2

We awoke with breakfast served on our balcony...wonderful however "basta bread!" Enough bread.....where it's delicious, it stays with us all day! We went to the beach/pool, enjoyed sun and met some interesting people (Chicago, Brazil, Rochester & NYC). Then at 2:30 we went on a boat tour out in the sea where we went into the ocean (Mike did a cannon ball into the sea!) and I timidly used the ladder.  Our captains caught four fish (Italians 4, Americans 0)! Slippery little suckers! 
Onwards to walk around the town, shop (Mike bought a very nice shirt from a man who personally made it...he also had a shop on Spring Street in Manhattan!), listened to classical music, went into a beautiful church, checked out someone else's wedding, and went to grab a slice of pizza. We climbed the stairs back up to the hotel (ps; Positano is NOT handicap accessible at all), reached the top and passed out. 
Awoke, got ready, and walked back down those blasted stairs (can we say calve cramps?) to the sea/boat taxi to Le Gavitella (amazing restaurant) where we enjoyed all fresh seafood (all caught earlier today). Our waiter treated us with lemoncello and a beautiful ceramic from the restaurant as a gift. We were on the boat with hilarious Italian women who busted loudly into song and sang vivaciously Volare'! Mike's belly report to follow. The food was well worth it. 
Back on land,we went to Music on The Rocks, which is a dance place/bar within the rocks on the cliffs over looking the sea. Amazing! We met a really nice girl named Florian, moved from France to NYC and now Boston (Back Bay) and then danced, enjoyed cocktails,  gorged with food and delicious music on the rocks cocktail (consisted of vodka, lemon, strawberry juice and Mike had sambuca on the rocks and campari soda). Finally....our night cap? Those god foresaken stairs again!  Back to our room, safe & sound and looking forward to our day trip tomorrow to Ravello and Amalfi. More to come! With love!
Day 2 Belly Report: 
Breakfast was pretty generic, just breads, coffee and juice (coffee is much better in Europe).  
Lunch was really a liquid lunch (bottle of wine pool side with almonds and olives) btw the almonds here are homemade, roasted and soaked in salt water - delish. Then we had a slice of pizza after the boat trip (average at best, I like my version better!).  Dinner was off the charts - the freshest fish ever.  Basically they cart over the catch of the day (see pics) and you pick your victim.  We chose to start with grilled shrimp, tuna carpaccio, and oysters.  All delicious, the tuna was done simply with lemon, olive oil, salt/pepper.  The main was a sea bass finished with capers, lemon butter, olives, oil and herbs - wow it was superb.  I had to treat myself to a ricotta/pear cheesecake slice to complement my espresso perfecto!  Our bellys are happy and tired...  Good night....





Positano Day 2

Good morning and greeting from our balcony at Le Sirenuse (www.sirenuse.it). We forgot to add that our driver yesterday, Gregory lived in NYC for 10 years and worked at Pasquale Rigoletto, the Arthur Ave Italian restaurant that we love. Crazy right. Father Tom (aka FT, aka Don Thomaso) took us to Pasquale Rigoletto for our first 'marriage meeting'. Thats all for now....

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

We were welcomed by Gregory (our driver) and his "Triolo" sign (my new last name!). He was very informative and provided us with great suggestions and focal points as we drove the extremely narrow streets. Fodor's travel book had tips for driving- don't look down, don't look up, don't look! It's easier that way. Thankfully Gregory was driving because we were flagrantly     rubber necking the whole way. 

There was SO much to see and words truly can not describe Positano's beauty. John Steinbeck (a man, quoted whom lived here in 1953 said "Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone." Prior to reading that quote, I kept saying to Mike that it felt like I had walked into the picture that my mother and I had seen when I was in 3rd grade in DC. As obsessed as a 3rd grader could be I knew that one day I would be here in Positano/Amalfi Coast. Unbelievable!

Once we arrived at Le Sirenuse ( google this hotel!) that sits perched upon the cliffs over looking the Tyrrhenian sea, we both were speechless. The hotel is breathtaking and we were given a tour by AnnaLisa, unpacked, and went to the hotel bar/pool. The afternoon consisted of white wine, caprese salad, sun and sleeping. The we napped more and got ready for dinner at Vincenzio (Gregory's restaurant suggestion) which was delicious...greeted us with champagne, wonderful service and they had live music! Afterwards we walked through the streets, visited shops, more live music and we are currently drinking wine on our room's balcony (overlooking the sea and the cliffs- really beyond breathtaking (Shelley/mm-rocking beautiful garments-thank you!) weather amazing and listening to the live music that is being played below. Mike and I could not be more happy- god is good!

Onto belly report.....heres the food / beverage breakdown....(yes we took pics of our food!)
First cocktail: Dina: Dirty Martini (additional olives and an unknown nut that tasted delicious and strangely like a pumpkin seed. Mike: Compari Soda. My drink was cheaper- who knew?!
Lunch: White wine (Pinot Grigio) and a capreses salad
Dinner:  Potato Croquettes/mini cheese calzone (delicious!)/ Cheese plate/ bottle of Nebbilo (Langhe) /Gnocchi pasta and stuffed pepper (which was amazing!)/ espresso and cappuccino....

Currently having Ruffino Chianti with my husband and must say that day three of marriage feels like a dream!  Buona Sera! xoxoxo
Love, 
us!

Positano.....Day 1!




Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Flight #1

Greetings from Aeroporti Di Milano! We have about an hour until boarding the short flight to Naples so we are stapling our precious belongings to our body before we get there (thieves I tell ya, theives). Flight from JFK was pretty smooth aside from the glass of wine spilled all over my only pair of jeans - oh well. We busted out the club soda but found that the wine stank was much more appealing then what we were about to encounter as we enterted Milano. Phew! As we shared the slow inefficient elevator space with our neighbors, I gasped for air as Mike was breathing into his under armor shirt for relief. None was to be found. We are awaiting our transfer and as Mike mentioned we will be in Naples only a short time as we are being driven to Postano/ Amalfi Coast. All traveling should be done by noon here, 6 am NY time. Check back later.....

Monday, August 31, 2009